Ship’s Log: Days 51-55
October 30 - November 3, 1999
Saturday, Oct. 30
We were up early, ate a breakfast of cold cereal, then stowed gear for sailing in heavier seas. We were at the fuel dock at 7:30 A.M. and topped off the tank with 16 gallons. We also added another five gallons to a can giving us a total of 10 gallons in two cans on deck. We were underway before 8:00 A.M.
The weather was mild with a 10 to 15 knot breeze out of the east/northeast. We sailed on a broad reach to close reach south/southeast down the narrow channel across Apalachicola Bay covering the six and a half nautical miles in about an hour. We decided to reduce sail before passing through Government Cut Pass onto the gulf, so I turned into the wind. Ron and Hank had difficulty with the reefing system on the main sail so I went forward, turning the helm over to Hank. After I reefed the main, Hank turned off the wind back towards the cut’s first mark while I was engaged in securing the reefed mail sail. Unfortunately, a shoal from dredging spoil was between us and the mark and we went gently but firmly aground. We tried for about a half an hour to free ourselves, but the wind, waves and ebb tide would not allow Telesis to get herself free.
I then called U.S. Boat Tow for assistance. The local tow operator was at Carrabelle and he needed an hour or more to reach us. He arrived on the scene at about 11:00 A.M. He had us place a towline on our bow passing through both bow cleats and then proceeded to use his props to wash a channel in front of Telesis, in effect dragging us through the holes he created. He seemed to be taking us across the shallows rather than back off from the direction we had approached them. After about 45 minutes of bumping us along through his holes he had us in deeper water and free. Thank goodness I took the unlimited towing service package from Boat U.S. At $85.00 per year it turned out to be a bargain. The tow bill was $635, which I did not have to pay!
We anchored Telesis in deeper water and pulled the floorboard to check the bilge for water coming in. We also checked the engine and rudder. All seemed to be in order. We decided to at least pass through the cut to see what conditions were outside. They were not good.
Almost immediately after passing the breakwater yet still inside the marker buoys, several confused waves combined into a pyramid of water that suddenly towered over Telesis on her port rear quarter, picking her up, rolling her to starboard and throwing her sideways, then breaking into the cockpit. I was standing at the wheel and it totally covered me with water. Ron and Hank were also drenched. Water splashed into the cabin and the cockpit had six inches standing. Our decision was made right then, turn around and return to a slip in the harbor. Unfortunately I had to get some safe sea room outside the cut’s narrow channel to do a 180-degree turn so we continued out another quarter of a mile until I felt comfortable with the turn.
We had no more severe breaking waves although we were being rolled 15 degrees on both beams. We re-entered the cut, then returned across Apalachicola Bay motor sailing with the Genoa. We settled back into our same slip and cleaned up below. Nobody was hurt and nothing apparently broken, but it was unsettling.
It is normal and good for one to analyze what happened in such experiences, what went wrong and what could have been approached differently. I have done that and have come to these conclusions: The grounding was the result partly of poor equipment design because the reefing system did not work well thereby causing confusion, but mostly it was caused because I did not take full command of the boat. I had experienced sailors on board and allowed them to make decisions on their own, i.e., turning off the wind and altering course without my instruction to do so. I knew we had shallows nearby and presumed Hank knew that as well. Apparently he did not, but it is my boat and my responsibility, therefore when he altered course without my commanding it I should have questioned why and made sure I knew what was happening. I did not. We went aground. My fault.
The wave breaking into the boat was simply the result of very heavy seas in the constricted area of the cut. Having never experienced the kind of short, steep waves that build in this area, I didn’t know how difficult they were. I’m actually glad we stuck our nose out in the stuff, as I understand now. I need to wait until conditions are favorable. This is not the place to be the intrepid sailor and Telesis is not a blue water boat. When it is rough on the gulf, one must wait until it settles down.
It was a Saturday night, but we were tired and a bit down from the events of the day, so we ate aboard on pasta prepared by Ron accompanied by red wine. We turned in early with the sounds of the blues band playing on the patio bar with patrons and staff in Halloween costumes. During the night I awoke to the wind blowing 20 knots from the east. I was glad Telesis was in here safe at the slip. I also wondered how long I would get to enjoy Apalachicola before I could cross to the other side. It will be several days and Ron and Hank need to return to Kansas City, so I will need to make a solo crossing which will require I change my plans as to how far and where I cross. I think I will have at least three days to consider my new plan.
Sunday, Oct. 31
It was decided that Ron and Hank should return to Kansas City as the weather will not improve for several days and they both have commitments during the next week. Ron was able to rent a car in Apalachicola at the local airport. All three of us drove to Tallahassee, FL where Hank was dropped off at the airport and Ron was dropped off at the bus station. Hank retired from Delta Airlines and was going to fly home on a pass. Ron was taking a bus to Tampa to catch his scheduled TWA flight Monday morning. I returned to Apalachicola with the car.
On the return to Apalachicola I stopped in Carrabelle, FL to look around. It is a quiet little fishing town, smaller than Apalachicola, but has a very nice marina, The Moorings. I stopped to inquire about moving Telesis there, but found that they had no transient slips available because many boats were waiting to cross the gulf just as I was. While I was in Carrabelle I ate at Julia Mae’s seafood restaurant, very good!
I returned to Apalachicola, found a laundromat and washed clothes, then turned in the car and returned to Telesis and spent a quiet night.
Monday, Nov. 1
It began to rain in the morning and rained very hard all day, several inches in total. I cleaned the interior of Telesis then caught up my logs in the computer. The humid air hung in the cabin and everything was damp. I fired up the a/c unit and turned it down to help dry out things.
All in all, a very quiet day with little to do but look after Telesis.
Tuesday, Nov. 2
It cleared during the night and the wind blew hard from the north. The forecast was for seas 8 to 10 feet on the gulf. Not a day to consider sailing out onto the gulf. I did spend some time thinking about what route I would take single-handed. The shortest direct route would be to Cedar Key. From Apalachicola Bay’s Government Cut it is 104 nautical miles at 110 degrees, almost due east. At five knots per hour it would take 21 hours plus time to clear the harbors at each end, so 24 hours would complete the leg. When the weather and waves are favorable, I should clear Apalachicola at 9:00 A.M. and should arrive in Cedar Key at the same time the next day.
I spent midday re-rigging the reefing systems on Telesis. I can now reef the main sail without leaving the cockpit. In the afternoon I walked about town and generally looked around.
The hotel of which the boat slips are a part has a lounge that opens at 4:00 P.M. with a happy hour. Many boaters get together to discuss there float plans and compare notes, especially with so many of us waiting on weather and waves.
I’ve made some new friends among the group. On a 34-foot trawler, Moderation Too, Patsy Cater is moving her boat from Iowa to Fort Meters Beach for the winter. She is holding because of the weather also. She is less than 100 pounds and acknowledges she’s “in the latter part of her sixties”. She’s a feisty little woman and captain of her vessel, having made some legs of her trip single-handed. She was one of the trawlers that left last Thursday then returned when the waves were running up to eight feet. She is now waiting for a young man to crew on her crossing later in the week. Patsy’s an interesting and fun lady and has invited me to visit when I pass through Fort Myers.
A couple arrived today on aboard an Island Packet 35 sailboat, Soul Caribé. Bobby Hill and Janelle Bufford live in Gulf Shores, AL and are headed to the Bahamas Islands for the winter. They’ve made this trip several times and have waited up to nine days for a favorable weather and wave pattern. Janelle says: “We’re people who go places in a sailboat, we’re not sailors, if the weather is bad, we wait.”
Another couple arrived today from Panama City, FL aboard a 36-foot Choy Lee, Naked Lady. Rick and Audrey Shumaker came for the Seafood Festival and will return to Panama City next week. They’ve also crossed several times and offered advice and council. They motor sail most of the time so they can make some speed. Rick and Audrey see a trawler in their future, or as Rick calls them “geriatric sailboats.”
I’ve met others, but these are the more interesting folks. It is pretty much universal, blow boaters stick together and stink potters do the same. The hybrids are the trawler folks, and they tend to hang with sailboaters, as many trawler owners were previously sailors.
Patsy Carter, all 95lbs. of her, on Moderation Too, a trawler.
Wednesday, Nov. 3
The weather is better although it became very cool last night, into the low 40s. The winds are down a little but the seas are still running pretty heavy. No crossings today, so we all stay put.
I spent the morning working on Telesis. No major projects but small jobs. I’ve had shades for the main cabin ports for over two years and finally put them up today. I also went to the grocery and purchased a few provisions. I strolled around Apalachicola and visited a few of the shops. The town is getting prepared for the activities of the Seafood Festival weekend.
Wednesday evening is seafood happy hour night in the hotel bar. This evening I had a dozen oysters, a dozen cold, boiled jumbo shrimp and three draft beers for $13.50. What a deal!
I’ve pretty much decided to try to cross on Thursday and arrive in Cedar Key Friday A.M. The weather forecast and wave forecast are somewhat encouraging. At the seafood night happy hour, I talked with others. The big powerboats are planning to leave tomorrow, but the sailors and trawlers are waiting another day. For me, waiting presents another problem with having Nancy join me on Saturday. If I don’t go on Thursday, it will be Sunday or Monday at the earliest due to making transportation connections for her. I return to Telesis and get to bed early in preparation for the long overnight passage ahead.